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Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2021 7:06 am
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Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2021 2:27 pm
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Brocade
Brocades are a heavy woven fabric with beautiful designs on it. You'll find yourself using this frequently within your first couple of years in cosplay. This fabric is common in historical costumes. Here are the stats for this fabric.
Quote: Used for: Historical Costumes, Jackets, vest, dresses, pants, and skirts. Weight: Heavy Sewing Tips: Use pinking sears when trimming Pre-Shrink Type: Dry-Clean Needle: 70/10
Canvas
Another heavy fabric that you will use as a form of stiffener to help your costume stay up a bit in spots.
Quote: Used for: Stiffener, corsets, tote bags Weight: Heavy Preshrink: Both (Wash to soften otherwise Dry-Clean) Needle: 100/16
Chiffon
Chiffon is a light-weight, flowy, and silky material. The material also can be sheer and is soft. When cutting this fabric it will fray easily.
Quote: Common uses: Tops, Dresses, sleeves, overtops, collars Weight: Light Preshrink: None Needle: 60/8 or 65/9
Sewing with Chiffon Hemming Chiffon
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 6:59 am
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Cotton
Cotton will be the most common fabric that you use. You'll find yourself hoarding scraps of common colors like Black, blue, red, grey, and white. If you have a large piece of cotton, keep it. Unless you need more for a costume, you'll find that you'll be using that cotton for little pieces like collars, cuffs, bows, and other small compontents.
Quote: Used for: Everything, but coats. Weight: Light Preshrink: Wash Needle: 70/10 or 80/12
Cotton by Koumori no Hime Cotton Info
Faux/Fake Fur
While real fur is used in clothing, few people like to see animals killed for clothing Faux is a popular alterative. While faux fur is a bit pricey, it is cheaper than the real thing.
Quote: Common Usage: Trim, jacket Type: Medium to Heavy Sewing Tip: If you cut fur with scissors, fur will fly. Instead turn it to it's backside and use a small blade to slowly cut it. So put a tarp down and then a cutting board to cut on. The tarp can be used later for more fur projects or camping. Needle: 80/12 for flexible backing fur and 90/14 for stiffer stuff. Foot: Use a presser foot with top tension.
Dying Fake Fur Sewing with Fake Fur by Koumori no Hime
Faux Leather or Pleather There are to types of Faux Leather. One is non-stretch and other stretches.
Quote: Used for: Pants, Skirts, Jackets Preshrink: Take a sample and run it through a machine. If it's skipping threading, wash it. Needle: 75/11 for stretch, and 90/14 non stretch. Presser foot: Teflon or Roller foot
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 7:01 am
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Faux Suede Like faux leather, faux suede is a cheaper version of a more costly product.
Quote: Used for: Accessories, skirts, jackets, pants, shirts Wash: To make softer Weight: Medium or Heavy Needle: 75/11, 70/10 for lightweight or 80/12 for heavy.
Felt
Felt is a material you won't be using for making the body of the garment, but you'll totally be using for some of the decals. It's handy to have a few sheets laying around and you can take what you need and store the rest.
Quote: Used for: Appliques, props, stuffed toys Wash: Not needed if it's not on the body of the costume. Weight: Light Needle: 10/12
Felt by Koumori no Hime
Flannel
Flannel is one of those fabrics that you can use a lot for. Both as an other garment, inner garment, or accessory.
Quote: Used for: PJs, lining, appliques, shirts, blankets Weight: Light Wash: Yes Needle: 80/12
Flannel by Koumori no Hime
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 7:05 am
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Fleece
Quote: Used for: Making Patches and appliques, sweatshirts, Accessories, Jackets Wash: No-need, do not Dry-Clean Type: Medium Needle: 70/10, 80/12, 75/11
Fleece by Koumori no Hime
Knits Knits is a large group of fabrics and this part will feature several different common types of knits, but I'll primarily focus on one type.
Here's the list of knit types: Double knits, Lycra knits, Scuba knits, Single knits, and Sweater Knits. More likely than not you'll be working with double knits.
Quote: Used For: Jackets, pants, cardigans, dresses, skirts, tops Weight: Light Wash: Yes, buy a little extra for shrink. Needle: 75/11
Lace Lace can add some flare to an outfit, and double if the characters is wearing a formal outfit. Lace can be delicate so be careful while cutting it.
Quote: Used for: silhouettes or small decal parts. Weight: Light Wash: Yes Needle: 75/11 or 70/10
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 7:08 am
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Linen
Linen is something you'll play with every so often and you're more likely to touch it when you're doing historical costumes. Linen is also a suiting material so it's common for dress pants and blazers.
Quote: Used for: Loose shirts, pants, boxy jackets and dresses. Weight: Medium Wash: Yes, but iron first and after. Needle: 70/10 for lighter linen or 80/12 for other weights.
Linen Fabric 101
Rayon Jersey
You probably won't start out using this, but you'll find that this fabric will be good for certain projects were you want to be able to move around more. You'll probably find that some of your work out clothing is made of this.
Quote: Used for: Pants, dresses Wash: Dry Clearer or steam Iron Weight: Light Needle: 75/11
Satin
Satin is one of those fabrics that becomes the evil in the costume world. Satin shines on one side and is difficult to work with, but you'll find that you need it for a lot of pieces.
Quote: Used for: Blouses, dresses, bridal gowns. Wash: Not needed Weight: Light to medium Needle: 70/10
Satin by Koumori no Hime Casa Collection by Koumori no Hime
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 8:43 am
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Silk
Silk is another fabric that as you become more and more into completion cosplay or into historical costuming, you'll be buying. Silk comes in many varieties and I'll be focusing on the most common types. Silk is also a pretty penny so it's not the cheapest.
The varieties that silk come in include China Silk, Silk Dupioni, silk gazar, silk noil, silk organza, Sandwashed Silk, Silk Shantung, Thai silk, silk tussah, and silk tweed.
The varieties you'll find you'll be using.
Quote: Name: Silk Dupioni Use for: flat pants, jackets, blouses, fitted dresses, straight skits, and vest. Wash: Dry-Clean Weight: Medium Needle: 70/10
Quote: Name: Silk Organza Use: Blouse Wash: Yes Weight: Light Needle: 60/8 or 65/9
Silk
Taffeta
Another fabric that you'll often use if you are going to historical costuming.
Quote: Use: Skirts, dresses Wash: Not needed Weight: Light Needle: 70/10
Tulle and Net
Tulle and Net is something that is another necessary evil fabric. You'll both love what it does, but hate having to sew with it.
Quote: Use: Underlying over and under skirts. Wash: Nope Weight: Light Needle: 70/10
Tulle by Koumori no Hime
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 11:22 am
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Upholstery
Yes, I am saying that using fabric normally used to make furniture is going to be something you'll use for costume making. Down in our info box I'll have more details.
Quote: Use: Furniture (props), corsets, historical clothing, vest, jackets. Wash: Yes, buy extra for shrink Weight: Heavy Needle: 90/14 or 100/16
Velvet
Velvet is a soft fabric and does cost a pretty penny, but not hard to find for a decent price.
Quote: Used for: Dresses, Cloaks/Capes, pants, skirts, vest, shirts Wash: Dry-cleaned, once garment is completed. Weight: Medium Needle: 70/10, 75/11
Vinyl
Vinyl is also another fabric normally for furniture, however I find myself always having some around to do some type of project.
Quote: Used for: Belts, fake-leather pieces in a costume Wash: None Weight: Medium Needles: 70/10 for thin vinyl, 40/16 for thicker
Sewing with vinyl
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 11:33 am
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Wool
Wool is another one that you see a lot of varieties in. This varieties include: Wool Boucle, Wool Challis, Wool Crepe, Wool Double Cloth, Wool Gauze, Wool Jersey, Wool Melton, and Woolens or Worsteds.
Wool is a common fabric used in Historical costumes or for cold weather items.
Quote: Wool Challis Used for: Skirts, dresses, Shirts, robes Weight: Medium Wash: Steam Iron Needle: 80/12
Quote: Wool Crepe Used for: pants, skirts, jackets, dresses Wash: Dry-Cleaner weight: medium Needle: 80/12
Quote: Wool Jersey Use: Tops, dresses, pants, skirts Wash: steam Weight: Medium Needle: 75/11
Quote: Woolens & Worsteds Used for: Jackets, skirts, dresses, pants Weight: Medium Wash: dry clean Needle: 80/12
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 11:41 am
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 11:55 am
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 12:12 pm
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 4:16 pm
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 7:47 pm
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 7:56 pm
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