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Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 1:38 pm
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Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 3:22 pm
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Gabrielle_AnimalLuver Crew
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Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 5:53 pm
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Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 7:41 pm
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Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 12:33 pm
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Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 3:15 pm
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Nooo, I wouldn't recommend pro plan over medical. I would say Medical then Hills, then ProPlan. Medical has much less corn than Hills, from the diets that I've compared anyway. Medical uses fish oil, no BHT, BHA or ethoxyquin. It's almost a good food ingredient wise. (assuming the by-products are quality by-products like heart etc.) I only mention pro plan because they HAVE a urinary diet that will not cost you a small fortune. Is it nearly as effective, probably not, but it is PH balanced for cats who are prone to urinary disease, and they do run tests on the food.
Would the vet feel crystals, no, impossible, STONES yes, but not crystals, crystals are microscopic, a stone is an accumulation of crystals,but even then, I have never heard of a vet try to PALPATE a stone. Fill a ballon with about 200ml of water, but a tiny pebble in. Now try to feel the pebble. We usually diagnose stones with xrays. Which is what I just had to do for my cat because I suspected it. Unfortunately that IS costly. I don't know if every vet does this. But my cat had no crystals in his urine and they suspected there might still be a stone without individual crystals leaking out.
Personally, when I see a cat straining to pee, I want to know FOR SURE what the cause is, not just assume and give antibiotics. Because it could potentially turn into a blockage which is life threatening and a lot more costly to treat than it is to prevent.
As long as the cat gets 50% moist food I'm not too worried, but ask your vet if his urine is concentrated. And if he needs to be on all moist. Rascal is actually on all moist and yet the last time I tested his urine it came up VERY concentrated. Which I'm hoping is a bit of a fluke but I try not to feed dry food to him anymore.
If you ever make tuna, poor the juice into the cat's bowl. Or if you roast chicken etc, pour the meat juice in there. You want to dilute the urine as much as possible.
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Gabrielle_AnimalLuver Crew
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Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 6:01 pm
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Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 6:15 am
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kage no neko My cats always get tuna juice. Or else they'd probably murder me that night while I sleep. We got a roast chicken from the store and they enjoyed the juice that came with that too. Anyway. Brought him to the vet. On the way he peed, like usual. So he gets to stay the night so they can get a urine sample sometime soon. So they're going to take his urine, do a urinalysis and a culture, and also knock him out and take x-rays. She said with the x-rays it'll show not only crystals, but also possible inflammation in his bladder. So hopefully by tomorrow we'll find out what the problem is. I feel so sad. Boyfriend is worried about him staying the night due to the anesthesia.. I'm worried about him staying the night due to him being away from me. xd Boyfriend said to imagine it like my kid going to school alone for the first time.
What does he need anesthesia for? Oh wait...US tech's aren't allowed to stay in the xray room are they. Here in QC we just let our techs get exposed to radiation lol. I wear a lead gown and thyroid protecter, no one at my clinic ever wears gloves, I don't even have my own dosimeter yet, which I'm pretty sure is against the law. I've been exposed to quite a bit of radiation already, which is funny cause I'm actually quite the hippy I haven't even used a microwave in years because I of the radiation and the way it denatures food. i DO continue to sleep with my phone next to me. So that's probably worse, it's just something I'm not willing to give up. I'm hoping some day they come out with lead cases lol.
Anyway, here we only anesthetise a cat for an xray if they are feral. A client owned animal that is viscious might just get a sedative.
But the safest place for your cat if he is getting any kind of tranq or anesthesia is at the vet. Animals under anesthesia are typically low blood pressure and hypothermia. Vets know this, and prevent accordingly with heating devices and IV fluids. Assuming he's going under for an xray, he'll be out and awake again in a matter of minutes. I'd be very surprised if they actually use an anesthesia though, when a simple mixture of tranqs will probably knock him out sufficiently to stay still.
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Gabrielle_AnimalLuver Crew
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Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 10:18 am
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Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 7:39 pm
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ok, I'm surprised they put him on iso for something as fast as an xray, seems like an aweful waste of time. But wtv, least it's a pretty safe drug.
I would ask for some beaded litter, and collect a sample yourself. Since they're doing a culture, it doesn't matter so much if what YOU bring in isn't sterile. What I like to do though is get a litter liner, to prevent contaminating the urine with bacteria, or getting false results from the cleaning products.
With that they can do a full urinalysis. I don't see how they have enough to culture and not enough for a UA though. At my clinic I've done a full UA on about 1ml of urine. The dipstick test takes about 3 drops, granted you do need at least 1ml to spin to do a sediment test. Anyways, point being, if you're going to investigate, you've got almost all the puzzle pieces but you're just missing one or two that might show you the answer, so I wouldn't stop with that, I would get beaded litter, bring in an unsterile sample, get them to finish the UA and if there is STILL nothing conceivably wrong. THEN I would suggest doing bloodwork. With stones ruled out, we've already narrowed the issues. It sounds like an infection. (Did they look at his kidneys on the xray, I had a vet and a tech overlook that on my cat's xray, we were all looking at the bladder and neglected to check his kidneys which is where HIS stones were.)
If it is behavioral. What is your cat to litter box ratio? What kind of litter and any changes recently?
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Gabrielle_AnimalLuver Crew
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Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 2:37 pm
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Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 5:19 pm
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Ok, well at least we have a diagnosis. (shame on the first vet for not trying to get a culture) So as long as you follow the prescription and don't miss any, don't give any late, you should see a difference fairly soon. It won't take the full 10days to get better, it's a precaution to give it for 10days so there aren't resistant bacteria. And two boxes is okay IMO. If there was still issues with inapropriate urination unrelated to health problems THEN I would say get more, but you can get away with fewer boxes than suggested as long as you clean them often enough.
Try to use unscented litter if your cats will let you change. I dunno WHY but I remember learning that scented litters for some unknown reason tend to aggrevate urinary issues.
Stick to a mostly moist diet, and preferably switch the pro plan for Pro Plan Urinary. Or if you can afford it, Hills s/d or c/d or Medical. At the very least steer clear of grocery foods. With the exception of pro plan. Keep in mind if you feed a urinary diet at night and something different in the morning, it won't be as effective at controlling the PH. So if you do get an expensive vet diet, it might not really be worth the money if you're mixing it. I would say Urinary dry and canned Pro Plan is a good option. I hate suggesting a switch from a holistic food to a vet food, but, I just don't know for certain if blue bufallo has been tested for optimal urine PH. I'm lucky enough to be able to test my cat's urine regularly for PH and Concentration. So I know his food is fine and I ignore the vets telling me to switch to Hills. You could keep the Blue Buffalo, switch the pro plan and just try to suppliment moist foods as much as possible. I know this is seriously TMI wall of info, just keep in mind, cats who get UTI's will very likely get them again unless you adjust something.
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Gabrielle_AnimalLuver Crew
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Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 6:28 pm
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